Sara Sue Sweater Pattern – Size Large

The large size is finally here, are you excited?

Items Needed:

  • Dk weight yarn – such as Lion Brand – Mandala, Yarn Bee – Sweet Delights
  • Hook – H/5.00mm
  • 6 – 1” buttons
  • Yarn needle
  • stitch markers

Stitches used:

  • St – Stitch
  • Slst – Slip Stitch
  • Hdc – Half double crochet
  • Inc – 2 hdc in same st
  • Fhdc – Foundation Hdc
  • Hdc2tog – Hdc 2 sts together
  • Fphdc – Front Post Hdc
  • Bphdc – Back Post Hdc
  • hdc/dc decrease – Yarn over insert into first st, yarn over pull through, yarn over insert into next st, yarn over pull through, yarn over and pull through 2 loops, yarn over and pull the last 4 loops.
  • dc/hdc decrease – yarn over, insert into first st, yarn over pull through, yarn over pull through 2 loops, yarn over insert into next st, yarn over and pull through, yarn over and pull through all 4 loops
  • Mattress stitch – used to sew shoulders seams

Notes:

  • This pattern is written using US terms.
  • Gauge is 14 sts x 14 rows = 4”
  • This sweater is started in the back, and all of the increases and decreases will all be on one side to create the neckline.
  • You can, for example, ch75 and then hdc across giving you 74 hdc. However, I have found that when you start with chains instead of fhdcs it doesn’t provide enough stretch to drape properly on that side.
  • If you would like to lengthen the sweater, you would add chs or fhdcs to row 1.
  • When turning your work and the end of a row, be sure to turn your work counter clockwise.
  • Starting chs and turning chs are NOT counted as sts
  • Pictures and finishing instructions are at the bottom.

Body:

Row 1 – Fhdc 78, or ch 79, hdc into 2nd ch and across to end, ch 1 turn
Rows 2-5 – hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 6 – hdc inc, hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 7 – hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 8 – hdc inc, hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 9 – hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 10 – hdc inc, hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 11 – hdc across to last st, (hdc, dc) in last st, ch2 turn
Row 12 – (dc, hdc) in first st, hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 13 – hdc across to last st, (hdc, dc) in last st, ch2 turn
Row 14 – (dc, hdc) in first st, hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 15 – hdc across to last 2sts, hdc inc, (hdc,dc) ch5 turn
Row 16 – hdc into 2nd ch from hook, hdc into next 3 chs, hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Rows 17-39 – hdc across, ch1 turn (23 rows)
Fasten off after row, insert a stitch marker into the 43rd stitch from the top
Row 40 – fhdc 42sts, starting in marked stitch and working towards the bottom of the sweater, hdc across to end. Ch1, turn.
Rows 41-63 – hdc across, ch1 turn (23 rows)the
Row 64 – slst across the first 10sts, ch2, starting in same st as last slst and ch2, dc/hdc decrease, hdc2tog, hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 65 – hdc across to last 4sts, hdc2tog, hdc/dc decrease, ch2 turn
Row 66 – dc/hdc decrease, hdc2tog, hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 67 – hdc across to last 2 sts, hdc/dc decrease, ch1 turn
Row 68 – hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 69 – hdc across to last 2 sts, hdc/dc decrease, ch1 turn
Row 70 – hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 71 – hdc across to last 2 sts, hdc2tog, ch1 turn
Rows 72-86 – hdc, across to end, ch1 turn (15 rows)
Row 87 – hdc across to last st, hdc inc, ch1 turn
Row 88 – hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 89 – hdc across to last st, (hdc, dc) in last st, ch1 turn
Row 90 – hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 91 – hdc across to last st, (hdc, dc) in last st, ch2 turn
Row 92 – (dc, hdc) in first st, hdc inc in next st, hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 93 – hdc across to last 2 sts, hdc inc, (hdc, dc) in last, ch2 turn
Row 94 – (dc, hdc) in first st, hdc inc, hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 95 – hdc across to end, fhdc 9sts, ch1 turn
Rows 96-118 – hdc across to end, ch1 turn (23 rows)
Insert a st marker into 43rd st
Row 119 – hdc across to st marker, fhdc 42 sts, ch1 turn
Rows 120-142 – hdc across to end, ch1 turn (23 rows)
Row 143 – hdc across to last 8sts, hdc2tog, hdc/dc decrease, ch2 turn
Row 144 – dc/hdc decrease, hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 145 – hdc across to last 2sts, hdc/dc decrease, ch2 turn
Row 146 – dc/hdc decrease, hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 147 – hdc across to last 2sts, hdc/dc decrease, ch1 turn
Row 148 – hdc2tog, hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 149 – hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 150 – hdc2tog, hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 151 – hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 152 – hdc across to last 2 sts, hdc2tog, ch1 turn
Rows 153-157 – hdc across to end, ch1 turn (5 rows)

If you want to make your collar in a different color fasten off here, or you can leave it attached, but pause here and with a separate strand of yarn sew the 24 rows that make up each side of each shoulder using the mattress stitch.  

Collar:

Row 1 – ch1, slst around the collar of the sweater, putting 1 slst at the end of each row that ends with a hdc or ch1 and 2 slst at the end of the row that ends with a dc or ch2, ch1 turn
Row 2 – hdc across the slst you just made, ch1 turn
Rows 3-5 – fphdc,bphdc, repeat across to end, ch1

We are now going to turn our work so we are working down the back of the sweater, adding the buttonhole panel.

Buttonhole Panel:

Row 1 – sc into the ends of the last 4 rows, sc across the starting 74 fhdc/74 ch, ch1 turn
Rows 2-4 – sc across to end ch1 turn
Row 5 – sc in first 3 sts, ch3, skip 3 sts, * sc across next 15 sts, ch3, skip sts*, repeat *-* 4 more times ( for a total of 6 buttonholes), sc to end, ch1 turn
Row 6 – sc across to ch sts, 3sc in ch space, sc across next 15 sts, 3sc in ch space, repeat 4 more times, sc in last 3 sts, ch1 turn
Rows 7-8 – sc across to end, ch1 turn
Fasten off and weave in ends.

Button Panel:

Row 1 – slst into the bottom corner of the back left panel, ch1, sc into same st, sc across to collar rows, sc into the end of each of the last 4 rows of the collar, ch1 turn
Rows 2-9 – sc across, ch1 turn
Fasten off and weave in ends.

Sleeves:

Row 1 – attach to st on the bottom left side of the armhole, ch1, hdc around, join with slst to first st, ch1 turn
Row 2-3 – hdc around, slst join to first st, ch1 turn
Row 4 – hdc around to last 2 sts, hdc2tog, slst join to first st, ch1 turn
Row 5 – hdc around, slst join ch1 turn
Row 6 – hdc around, ch1, turn
Rows 7-30 – repeat rows 4-6
Row 31 – hdc around, last 2 sts, hdc2tog,slst join,ch1, turn
Row 32 – hdc around, slst join, ch1 turn
Row 33 – hdc2tog, hdc around, slst join, ch1, turn
Row 34 – hdc around, slst join, ch1, turn
Rows 35-55 – repeat rows 31-34
Rows 56-59 – hdc around, slst join, ch1, turn
Row 60 – slst around, slst join, ch1 DO NOT turn, from here to end of the sleeve.
Row 61 – hdc around, slst join, ch1
Row 62 – fphdc,bphdc repeat around, slst join to first st, ch1
Rows 63-75 – repeat row 62 (13 rows)
Fasten off and weave in ends

Waistband:

Row 1 – overlap the 2 button panels and slst them together putting 1 slst at the end of each row, slst join, ch1 turn
Row 2 – Hdc across the first 14, hdc2tog, hdc across next 20, repeat 6 times (7 total), hdc into remaining sts, slst join, ch1
Rows 3-15 – fphdc, bphdc, repeat around, ch1 turn
Fasten off and weave in ends

Finishing Instructions:

You are going to sew the buttons onto the 5th row of buttonhole panel. Line up the two panels and mark the st on the button panel that lines up with the middle of the buttonholes. Weave in all your ends and you finished.


Sara Sue Sweater Pattern – Size XLarge

Don’t be afriad to try this sweater out, it looks stunning in all sizes and on all sizes and shapes.

Items Needed:

Dk weight yarn – such as Lion Brand – Mandala, Yarn Bee – Sweet Delights
Hook – H/5.00mm
6 – 1” buttons
Yarn needle
stitch markers

Stitches Used:

  • St – Stitch
  • Slst – Slip Stitch
  • Hdc – Half double crochet
  • Inc – 2 hdc in same st
  • Fhdc – Foundation Hdc
  • Hdc2tog – Hdc 2 sts together
  • Fphdc – Front Post Hdc
  • Bphdc – Back Post Hdc
  • hdc/dc decrease – Yarn over insert into first st, yarn over pull through, yarn over insert into next st, yarn over pull through, yarn over and pull through 2 loops, yarn over and pull the last 4 loops.
  • dc/hdc decrease – yarn over, insert into first st, yarn over pull through, yarn over pull through 2 loops, yarn over insert into next st, yarn over and pull through, yarn over and pull through all 4 loops
  • Mattress stitch – used to sew shoulders seams

Notes:

  • This pattern is written using US terms.
  • Gauge is 14 sts x 14 rows = 4”
  • This sweater is started in the back, and all of the increases and decreases will all be on one side to create the neckline.
  • You can, for example, ch75 and then hdc across giving you 74 hdc. However, I have found that when you start with chains instead of fhdcs it doesn’t provide enough stretch to drape properly on that side.
  • If you would like to lengthen the sweater, you would add chs or fhdcs to row 1.
  • When turning your work and the end of a row, be sure to turn your work counter clockwise.
  • Starting chs and turning chs are NOT counted as sts
  • Pictures and finishing instructions are at the bottom.

Body:

Row 1 – Fhdc 76, or ch 77, hdc into 2nd ch and across to end, ch 1 turn
Rows 2-6 – hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 7 – hdc across to last st, hdc inc, ch1 turn
Row 8 – hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 9 – hdc across to last st, hdc inc, ch1 turn
Row 10 – hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 11 – hdc across to last st, hdc inc, ch2 turn
Row 12 – (dc, hdc) in first st, hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 13 – hdc across to last st, (hdc, dc) in last st, ch2 turn
Row 14 – (dc, hdc) in first st, hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 15 – hdc across to last st, (hdc, dc) in last st, ch2 turn
Row 16 – (dc, hdc) in first st, hdc inc, hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 17 – hdc across to end, fhdc 9sts, ch1 turn
Rows 18-43 – hdc across, ch1 turn (26 rows)
Insert a stitch marker into the 47th stitch from the top
Row 44 – hdc across to st marker, starting in same st fhdc 47sts, ch1 turn
Rows 45-69 – hdc across, ch1 turn (25 rows)
Row 70 – hdc across to last 13sts,hdc2tog, hdc/dc decrease, ch2 turn
Row 71 – dc/hdc decrease, hdc2tog, hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 72 – hdc across to last 4sts, hdc2tog, hdc/dc decrease, ch2 turn
Row 73 – dc/hdc decrease, hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 74 – hdc across to last 2sts, hdc/dc decrease, ch1 turn
Row 75 – hdc across to end, ch2 turn
Row 76 – dc/hdc decrease, hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 77 – hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 78 – hdc2tog, hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Rows 79-95 – hdc, across to end, ch1 turn (17 rows)
Row 96 – hdc across to last st, hdc inc, ch1 turn
Row 97 – hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 98 – hdc across to last st, (hdc, dc) in last st, ch1 turn
Row 99 – hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 100 – hdc across to last st, (hdc, dc) in last st, ch2 turn
Row 101 – (dc, hdc) in first st, hdc inc in next st, hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 102 – hdc across to last 2 sts, hdc inc, (hdc, dc) in last, ch2 turn
Row 103 – (dc,hdc), hdc inc, hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 104 – hdc across to 2sts, hdc inc, (hdc, dc) in last st, ch5 turn
Row 105 – hdc into 2nd ch from hook, hdc across next 3sts, hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Rows 106-130 – hdc across to end, ch1 turn (26 rows)
Insert a st marker into the 39th st from the top.
Row 131 – hdc across to st marker, fhdc38 sts, ch1 turn
Rows 132-156 – hdc across to end, ch1 turn (25 rows)
Row 157 – hdc across to last 5sts, hdc2tog, hdc/dc decrease, ch2 turn
Row 158 – dc/hdc decrease, hdc2tog, hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 159 – hdc across to last 2sts, hdc/dc decrease, ch2 turn
Row 160 – dc/hdc decrease, hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 161 – hdc across to last 2sts, hdc/dc decrease, ch1 turn
Row 162 – hdc2tog, hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 163 – hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 164 – hdc2tog, hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 165 – hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 166 – hdc across to last 2 sts, hdc2tog, ch1 turn
Rows 167-172 – hdc across to end, ch1 turn (6 rows)

If you want to make your collar in a different color fasten off here, or you can leave it attached, but pause here and with a separate strand of yarn sew the 26 rows that make up each side of each shoulder using the mattress stitch.

Collar:

Row 1 – slst around the collar of the sweater, putting 1 slst at the end of each row that ends with a hdc or ch1 and 2 slst at the end of the row that ends with a dc or ch2, ch1 turn
Row 2 – hdc across the slst you just made, ch1 turn
Rows 3-4 – fphdc,bphdc, repeat across to end, ch1
We are now going to turn our work so we are working down the back of the sweater, adding the buttonhole panel.

Buttonhole Panel:

Row 1 – sc into the ends of the last 4 rows, sc across the starting 74 fhdc/74 ch, ch1 turn
Rows 2-4 – sc across to end ch1 turn
Row 5 – sc in first 3 sts, ch3, skip 3 sts, * sc across next 15 sts, ch3, skip sts*, repeat *-* 4 more times ( for a total of 6 buttonholes), sc to end, ch1 turn
Row 6 – sc across to ch sts, 3sc in ch space, sc across next 15 sts, 3sc in ch space, repeat 4 more times, sc in last 3 sts, ch1 turn
Rows 7-9 – sc across to end, ch1 turn
Fasten off and weave in ends.

Button Panel:

Row 1 – slst into the bottom corner of the back left panel, ch1, sc into same st, sc across to collar rows, sc into the end of each of the last 4 rows of the collar, ch1 turn
Rows 2-9 – sc across, ch1 turn
Fasten off and weave in ends.

Sleeves:

Row 1 – attach to st on the bottom left side of the armhole, ch1, hdc around, join with slst to first st, ch1 turn
Row 2-3 – hdc around, slst join to first st, ch1 turn
Row 4 – hdc around to last 2 sts, hdc2tog, slst join to first st, ch1 turn
Row 5 – hdc around, slst join ch1 turn
Row 6 – hdc around, ch1, turn
Rows 7-33 – repeat rows 4-6
Row 34 – hdc around, last 2 sts, hdc2tog,slst join,ch1, turn
Row 35 – hdc around, slst join, ch1 turn
Row 36 – hdc2tog, hdc around, slst join, ch1, turn
Row 37 – hdc around, slst join, ch1, turn
Rows 38-58 – repeat rows 34-37
Rows 59-62 – hdc around, slst join, ch1, turn
Row 63 – slst around, slst join, ch1 DO NOT turn, from here to end of the sleeve.
Row 64 – hdc around, slst join, ch1
Row 65 – fphdc,bphdc repeat around, slst join to first st, ch1
Rows 66-78 – repeat row 65 (13 rows)
Fasten off and weave in ends

Waistband:

Row 1 – overlap the 2 button panels and slst them together putting 1 slst at the end of each row, continue to slst around putting 1 slst at the end of each row, slst join, ch1 turn
Row 2 – Hdc across the first 6, hdc2tog, hdc across next 22, repeat 6 times (7 total), hdc into last 6 sts, slst join, ch1
Rows 3-15 – fphdc, bphdc, repeat around, ch1 turn
Fasten off and weave in ends

Finishing Instructions:

You are going to sew the buttons onto the 5th row of buttonhole panel. Line up the two panels and mark the st on the button panel that lines up with the middle of the buttonholes. Weave in all your ends and you finished.

Sara Sue Sweater – Size Medium

The most requested size is finally here!! This sweater is designed to be a little oversized with cinching at the waist, which allows it to be comfortable without losing your shape entirely. The lightweight yarn allows it to drape to without being too bulky. This is sure to be your next favorite sweater.

Items Needed:

  • DK weight yarn – such as Lion Brand Mandala/Baby Mandala, or Yarn Bee Sweet Delights
  • H/5.00mm Hook
  • 6 – 1″ Buttons
  • Stitch Markers
  • Yarn Needle

Stitches Used:

  • St – Stitch
  • Slst – Slip Stitch
  • Hdc – Half double crochet
  • Inc – 2 hdc in same st
  • Fhdc – Foundation Hdc
  • Hdc2tog – Hdc 2 sts together
  • Fphdc – Front Post Hdc
  • Bphdc – Back Post Hdc
  • hdc/dc decrease – Yarn over insert into first st, yarn over pull through, yarn over insert into next st, yarn over pull through, yarn over and pull through 2 loops, yarn over and pull the last 4 loops.
  • dc/hdc decrease – yarn over, insert into the first st, yarn over pull through, yarn over pull through 2 loops, yarn over insert into next st, yarn over and pull through, yarn over and pull through all 4 loops
  • Mattress stitch – used to sew shoulders seams

Notes:

  • This pattern is written using US terms.
  • Gauge is 14 sts x 14 rows = 4”
  • This sweater is started in the back, and all of the increases and decreases will all be on one side to create the neckline.
  • You can, for example, ch75 and then hdc across giving you 74 hdc. However, I have found that when you start with chains instead of fhdcs it doesn’t provide enough stretch to drape properly on that side.
  • If you would like to lengthen the sweater, you would add chs or fhdcs to row 1.
  • When turning your work and the end of a row, be sure to turn your work counter clockwise.
  • Starting chs and turning chs are NOT counted as sts
  • Pictures and finishing instructions are at the bottom.

Body:

Row 1 – Fhdc 76, or ch 77, hdc into 2nd ch and across to end, ch 1 turn
Rows 2-4 – hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 5 – hdc across to last st, hdc inc, ch1 turn
Row 6 – hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 7 – hdc across to last st, hdc inc, ch1 turn
Row 8 – hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 9 – hdc across to last st, hdc inc, ch2 turn
Row 10 – (dc, hdc) in first st, hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 11 – hdc across to last st, (hdc, dc) in last st, ch2 turn
Row 12 – (dc, hdc) in first st, hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 13 – hdc across to last st, (hdc, dc) in last st, ch2 turn
Row 14 – (dc,hdc) in first st, hdc inc, hdc across to end ch1 turn
Row 15 – hdc across to end, fhdc 4sts, ch1 turn
Rows 16-36 – hdc across, ch1 turn (21 rows)
Insert a stitch marker into the 39th stitch from the top
Row 37 – hdc across to st marker, starting in same st fhdc 38 sts, ch1 turn
Rows 38-58 – hdc across, ch1 turn (21 rows)
Row 59 – hdc across to last 13 sts, hdc2tog, hdc/dc decrease, ch2 turn
Row 60 – dc/hdc decrease, hdc2tog, hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 61 – hdc across to last 4 sts, hdc2tog, hdc/dc decrease, ch2 turn
Row 62 – dc/hdc decrease, hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 63 – hdc across to last 2 sts, hdc/dc decrease, ch1 turn
Row 64 – hdc across to end, ch2 turn
Row 65 – hdc across to last 2 sts, hdc/dc decrease, ch1 turn
Row 66 – hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 67 – hdc across to last 2 sts, hdc2tog, ch turn
Rows 68-80 – hdc, across to end, ch1 turn (13 rows)
Row 81 – hdc across to last st, hdc inc, ch1 turn
Row 82 – hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 83 – hdc across to last st, (hdc, dc) in last st, ch1 turn
Row 84 – hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 85 – hdc across to last st, (hdc, dc) in last st, ch2 turn
Row 86 – (dc, hdc) in first st, hdc inc in next st, hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 87 – hdc across to last 2 sts, hdc inc, (hdc, dc) in last, ch2 turn
Row 88 – (dc,hdc), hdc inc, hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 89 – hdc across to 2sts, hdc inc, (hdc, dc) in last st, ch10 turn
Row 90 – hdc into 2nd ch from hook, hdc across next 8sts, hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Rows 91-111 – hdc across to end, ch1 turn (21 rows)
Fasten off and insert a st marker into the 39th st from the top.
Row 112 – fhdc 38sts, starting in marked stitch and working towards the bottom of the sweater, hdc across to end. Ch1, turn.
Rows 113-133 – hdc across to end, ch1 turn (21 rows)
Row 134 – hdc across to last 5sts, hdc2tog, hdc/dc decrease, ch2 turn
Row 135 – dc/hdc decrease, hdc2tog, hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 136 – hdc across to last 2sts, hdc/dc decrease, ch2 turn
Row 137 – dc/hdc decrease, hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 138 – hdc across to last 2sts, hdc/dc decrease, ch1 turn
Row 139 – hdc2tog, hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 140 – hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 141 – hdc2tog, hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 142 – hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 143 – hdc across to last 2 sts, hdc2tog, ch1 turn
Rows 144-147 – hdc across to end, ch1 turn (4 rows)

If you want to make your collar in a different color fasten off here, or you can leave it attached, but pause here and with a separate strand of yarn sew the 22 rows that make up each side of each shoulder using the mattress stitch.  

Collar:

Row 1 – slst around the collar of the sweater, putting 1 slst at the end of each row that ends with a hdc or ch1 and 2 slst at the end of the row that ends with a dc or ch2, ch1 turn
Row 2 – hdc across the slst you just made, ch1 turn
Rows 3-5 – fphdc,bphdc, repeat across to end, ch1
We are now going to turn our work so we are working down the back of the sweater, adding the buttonhole panel.

Buttonhole Panel:

Row 1 – sc into the ends of the last 4 rows, sc across the starting 74 fhdc/74 ch, ch1 turn
Rows 2-4 – sc across to end ch1 turn
Row 5 – sc in first 3 sts, ch3, skip 3 sts, * sc across next 11 sts, ch3, skip sts*, repeat *-* 4 more times ( for a total of 6 buttonholes), sc to end, ch1 turn
Row 6 – sc across to ch sts, 3sc in ch space, sc across next 11 sts, 3sc in ch space, repeat 4 more times, sc in last 3 sts, ch1 turn
Rows 7-9 – sc across to end, ch1 turn
Fasten off and weave in ends.

Button Panel:

Row 1 – slst into the bottom corner of the back left panel, ch1, sc into same st, sc across to collar rows, sc into the end of each of the last 4 rows of the collar, ch1 turn
Rows 2-9 – sc across, ch1 turn
Fasten off and weave in ends.

Sleeves:

Row 1 – attach to st on the bottom left side of the armhole, ch1, hdc around, join with slst to first st, ch1 turn
Row 2-3 – hdc around, slst join to first st, ch1 turn
Row 4 – hdc around to last 2 sts, hdc2tog, slst join to first st, ch1 turn
Row 5 – hdc around, slst join ch1 turn
Row 6 – hdc around, ch1, turn
Rows 7-27 – repeat rows 4-6
Row 28 – hdc around, last 2 sts, hdc2tog,slst join,ch1, turn
Row 29 – hdc around, slst join, ch1 turn
Row 30 – hdc2tog, hdc around, slst join, ch1, turn
Row 31 – hdc around, slst join, ch1, turn
Rows 32-52 – repeat rows 28-31
Rows 53-56 – hdc around, slst join, ch1, turn
Row 57 – slst around, slst join, ch1 DO NOT turn, from here to end of the sleeve.
Row 58 – hdc around, slst join, ch1
Row 59 – fphdc,bphdc repeat around, slst join to first st, ch1
Rows 60-72 – repeat row 58 (13 rows)
Fasten off and weave in ends

Waistband:

Do not turn at end of rows
Row 1 – overlap the 2 button panels and slst them together putting 1 slst at the end of each row, continue to slst around putting 1 slst at the end of each row, slst join, ch1
Row 2 – hdc2tog, hdc across next 19, repeat 6 times (7 total), slst join, ch1
Rows 3-15 – fphdc, bphdc, repeat around, ch1 turn
Fasten off and weave in ends

Finishing Instructions:

You are going to sew the buttons onto the 5th row of buttonhole panel. Line up the two panels and mark the st on the button panel that lines up with the middle of the buttonholes. The first button will be placed in the 5th st from the top on the button panel, and each button after that will have 13 sts between them. Weave in all your ends and you finished.

I hope you love this pattern and sweater as much as my testers, family, friends and I have. I would love to hear your comments and see your Sara Sue Sweaters, please share them with me here in the comment, on my Facebook Page, or Instagram.

Sara Sue Sweater – Size Small

This sweater is stunning on all body types and wonderfully comfortable to wear. You are going to want to whip one in every color and get requests for more. This sweater was an instant hit among my friends and family, everyone had to have one. I have made 7-8 already of these beautiful sweaters already! So if you are looking for a gift or something to make for next seasons craft fairs, this is sure to be a big hit.

Items Needed:

  • Dk weight yarn – such as Lion Brand – Mandala, Yarn Bee – Sweet Delights
  • H/5.00mm Hook
  • 6 – 1″ Buttons
  • Yarn Needle
  • Stitch Markers

Stitches Used:

  • St – Stitch
  • Slst – Slip Stitch
  • Hdc – Half double crochet
  • Inc – 2 hdc in same st
  • Fhdc – Foundation Hdc
  • Hdc2tog – Hdc 2 sts together
  • Fphdc – Front Post Hdc
  • Bphdc – Back Post Hdc
  • hdc/dc decrease – Yarn over insert into first st, yarn over pull through, yarn over insert into next st, yarn over pull through, yarn over and pull through 2 loops, yarn over and pull the last 4 loops.
  • dc/hdc decrease – yarn over, insert into first st, yarn over pull through, yarn over pull through 2 loops, yarn over insert into next st, yarn over and pull through, yarn over and pull through all 4 loops
  • Mattress stitch – used to sew shoulders seams

Notes:

  • This pattern is written using US terms.
  • Gauge is 14 sts x 14 rows = 4”
  • This sweater is started in the back, and all of the increases and decreases will all be on one side to create the neckline.
  • You can, for example, ch75 and then hdc across giving you 74 hdc. However, I have found that when you start with chains instead of fhdcs it doesn’t provide enough stretch to drape properly on that side.
  • If you would like to lengthen the sweater, you would add chs or fhdcs to row 1.
  • When turning your work and the end of a row, be sure to turn your work counter clockwise.
  • Starting chs and turning chs are NOT counted as sts
  • Pictures and finishing instructions are at the bottom.

Body:

Row 1 – Fhdc 72, or ch 73, hdc into 2nd ch and across to end, ch 1 turn
Rows 2-3 – hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 4 – hdc inc, hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 5 – hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 6 – hdc inc, hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 7 – hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 8 – hdc inc, hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 9 – hdc across to last st, (hdc, dc) in last st, ch2 turn
Row 10 – (dc, hdc) in turning ch, hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 11 – hdc across to last st, (hdc, dc) in last st, ch2 turn
Row 12 – (dc, hdc) in first st, hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 13 – hdc across to last 2 sts, hdc inc, (hdc, dc), ch3 turn
Row 14 – hdc into 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next ch, hdc across to end ch1 turn
Rows 15-33 – hdc across, ch1 turn (19 rows)
Fasten off after row 32, insert a stitch marker into the 35th stitch from the top
Row 34 – fhdc 34sts, starting in marked 35th sts hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Rows 35-53 – hdc across, ch1 turn (19 rows)
Row 54 – slst across the first 10sts, ch2, in same sts as ch2 dc/hdc decrease, hdc2tog, hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 55 – hdc across last 4 sts, hdc2tog, hdc/dc decrease, ch2 turn
Row 56 – dc/hdc decrease, hdc2tog, hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 57 – hdc across to last 2 sts, hdc/dc decrease, ch1 turn
Row 58 – hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 59 – hdc across to last 2 sts, hdc/dc decrease, ch1 turn
Row 60 – hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 61 – hdc across to last 2 sts, hdc2tog, ch1 turn
Rows 62-72 – hdc, across to end, ch1 turn  (11 rows)
Row 73 – hdc across to last st, hdc inc, ch1 turn
Row 74 – hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 75 – hdc across to last st, (hdc, dc) in last st, ch1 turn
Row 76 – hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 77 – hdc across to last st, (hdc, dc) in last st, ch2 turn
Row 78 – (dc, hdc) in first st, hdc inc in next st, hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 79 – hdc across to last 2 sts, hdc inc, (hdc, dc) in last, ch2 turn
Row 80 – (dc, hdc) in first sts, hdc inc in next st, hdc across to end ch1 turn
Row 81 – hdc across to end, fhdc 9sts, ch1 turn
Rows 82-100 – hdc across to end, ch1 turn (19 rows)
Row 101 – hdc across to st marker, fhdc 34sts, ch1 turn
Rows 102-120 – hdc across to end, ch1 turn (19 rows)
Row 121 – hdc across to last 4 sts, hdc2tog, hdc/dc decrease,ch2 turn, leaving last 4 sts unworked
Row 122 – dc/hdc decrease, hdc2tog, hdc across to end ch1 turn
Row 123 – hdc across to last 2 sts, hdc/dc decrease, ch2 turn
Row 124 – dc/hdc decrease, hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 125 – hdc across to last 2 sts, hdc/dc decrease, ch1 turn
Row 126 – hdc2tog, hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 127 – hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 128 – hdc2tog, hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 129 – hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 130 – hdc across to last 2 sts, hdc2tog, ch1 turn
Rows 131-133 – hdc across to end

If you want to make your collar in a different color fasten off here, or you can leave it attached, but pause here and with a separate strand of yarn sew the 20 rows that make up each side of each shoulder using the mattress stitch.  

Collar:

Row 1 – ch1, slst around the collar of the sweater, putting 1 slst at the end of each row that ends with a hdc or ch1 and 2 slst at the end of the row that ends with a dc or ch2, ch1 turn
Row 2 – hdc across the slst you just made, ch1 turn
Rows 3-5 – *fphdc,bphdc*, repeat across to end, ch1
We are now going to turn our work so we are working down the back of the sweater, adding the buttonhole panel.

Buttonhole Panel:

Row 1 – sc into the ends of the last 4 rows, sc across the starting 74 fhdc/74 ch, ch1 turn
Rows 2-4 – sc across to end ch1 turn
Row 5 – sc in first 3 sts, ch3, skip 3 sts, * sc across next 10 sts, ch3, skip sts*, repeat *-* 4 more times ( for a total of 6 buttonholes), sc to end, ch1 turn
Row 6 – sc across to ch sts, 3sc in ch space, *sc across next 10 sts, 3sc in ch space*, repeat *-* 4 more times, sc in last 3 sts, ch1 turn
Rows 7-9 – sc across to end, ch1 turn
Fasten off and weave in ends.

Button Panel:

Row 1 – slst into the bottom corner of the back left panel, ch1, sc into same st, sc across to collar rows, sc into the end of each of the last 4 rows of the collar, ch1 turn
Rows 2-9 – sc across, ch1 turn
Fasten off and weave in ends.

Sleeves:

Row 1 – sc into the ends of the last 4 rows, sc across the starting 74 fhdc/74 ch, ch1 turn
Rows 2-4 – sc across to end ch1 turn
Row 5 – sc in first 3 sts, ch3, skip 3 sts, * sc across next 10 sts, ch3, skip sts*, repeat *-* 4 more times ( for a total of 6 buttonholes), sc to end, ch1 turn
Row 6 – sc across to ch sts, 3sc in ch space, *sc across next 10 sts, 3sc in ch space*, repeat *-* 4 more times, sc in last 3 sts, ch1 turn
Rows 7-9 – sc across to end, ch1 turn
Fasten off and weave in ends.

Waistband:

Row 1 – overlap the 2 button panels and slst them together putting 1 slst at the end of each row, continue to slst around putting 1 slst at the end of each row, slst join, ch1 turn
Row 2 – *hdc2tog, hdc across next 15*, repeat 7 times (8 total), hdc into remaining sts, slst join, ch1
Rows 3-15 – *fphdc, bphdc*, repeat around, ch1 turn
Fasten off and weave in ends

Finishing Instructions:

You are going to sew the buttons onto the 5th row of buttonhole panel. Line up the two panels and mark the st on the button panel that lines up with the middle of the buttonholes.

I hope you love this pattern and sweater as much as my testers, family, friends and I have. I would love to hear your comments and see your Sara Sue Sweaters, please share them with me here in the comment, on my Facebook Page, or Instagram.

Sara Sue Sweater – Free Crochet Pattern

I am so excited, and a little nervous, to introduce to you all to my first published crochet pattern! I designed this wonderful sweater for my sister in law, I had her send me 3-4 pictures of sweaters she likes and would want, and then I mashed them all into one stunning sweater.

Back Close-up

I wanted this sweater to be comfortable and timeless, and I think I have managed to achieve both. The buttons down the back of the sweater give an updated flair to a 50’s style sweater. This sweater has received so many compliments, and I have received numerous requests for me to make this sweater for them.

This sweater is crocheted using DK weight yarn, and an H/5.00mm hook, to achieve its lovely weight and drape. I have made this pattern up using Lion Brand Mandala, Baby Mandala yarn, and Yarn Bee’s Sweet Delight, and all of them have worked up beautifully.

The Pattern is available here on Ravelry.com for download without ads and with pictures, and also here on my website for free. If neither of these options will work for you, please contact me.

Waistband Close-up

Links to the different sizes:
XSmall – Below
Small – Releases 1-22-19
Medium – Releases 1-29-19
Large – Releases 2-5-19
XLarge – Release 2-12-19

I hope that you love this sweater as much as I do!!! Please share and pin this beautiful pattern with all your crochet buddies you know will love it.

Size – XSmall

Items Needed:

  • Dk weight yarn – such as Lion Brand – Mandala, Yarn Bee – Sweet Delights
  • H/5.00mm Hook
  • 6 – 1″ Buttons
  • Stitch Markers
  • Yarn Needle

Stitches Used:

  • St – Stitch
  • Slst – Slip Stitch
  • Hdc – Half double crochet
  • Inc – 2 hdc in same st
  • Fhdc – Foundation Hdc
  • Hdc2tog – Hdc 2 sts together
  • Fphdc – Front Post Hdc
  • Bphdc – Back Post Hdc
  • hdc/dc decrease – Yarn over insert into first st, yarn over pull through, yarn over insert into next st, yarn over pull through, yarn over and pull through 2 loops, yarn over and pull the last 4 loops.
  • dc/hdc decrease – yarn over, insert into first st, yarn over pull through, yarn over pull through 2 loops, yarn over insert into next st, yarn over and pull through, yarn over and pull through all 4 loops
  • Mattress stitch – used to sew shoulders seams

Notes:

  • This pattern is written using US terms.
  • Gauge is 14 sts x 14 rows = 4”
  • This sweater is started in the back, and all of the increases and decreases will all be on one side to create the neckline.
  • You can, for example, ch75 and then hdc across giving you 74 hdc. However, I have found that when you start with chains instead of fhdcs it doesn’t provide enough stretch to drape properly on that side.
  • If you would like to lengthen the sweater, you would add chs or fhdcs to row 1.
  • When turning your work and the end of a row, be sure to turn your work counter clockwise.
  • Starting chs and turning chs are NOT counted as sts
  • Pictures and finishing instructions are at the bottom.

Body:

Row 1 – Fhdc 70, or ch 71, hdc into 2nd ch and across to end, ch 1 turn
Row 2 – hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 3 – hdc across to last st, hdc inc in last st, ch1 turn
Row 4 – hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 5 – hdc across to last st, hdc inc in last st, ch1 turn
Row 6 – hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 7 – hdc across to last st, hdc inc in last st, ch1 turn
Row 8 – (dc, hdc) in first st, hdc across to end, ch 1 turn
Row 9 – hdc across to last st, (hdc, dc) in last st, ch2 turn
Row 10 – (dc, hdc) in first st, hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 11 – hdc across to last st, (hdc, dc) in last st, ch2
Row 12 – (dc, hdc) in the first st, hdc inc in next sts, hdc across to end ch1 turn
Row 13 – hdc across to end, fhdc 4 sts, ch1 turn
Rows 14-31 – hdc across, ch1 turn (18 rows)
fasten off after row 31
Row 32 – fhdc 30 sts, starting in marked stitch and working towards the bottom of the sweater, hdc across to end. Ch1, turn.
Rows 33-49 – hdc across, ch1 turn (17 rows)
Row 50 – slst across first 10 sts, ch2, starting in same sts as ch2 dc/hdc decrease, hdc2tog, hdc across to end. Ch1 turn
Row 51 – hdc across to last 4, hdc2tog, hdc/dc decrease, ch2 turn
Row 52 – dc/hdc decrease, hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 53 – hdc across to last 2, hdc/dc decrease, ch1 turn
Row 54 – hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 55 – hdc across to last 2, hdc/dc decrease, ch1 turn
Row 56 – hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 57 – hdc across to last 2, hdc2tog, ch1 turn
Rows 58-66 – hdc, across to end, ch1 turn (9 rows)
Row 67 – hdc across to last st, hdc inc, ch1 turn
Row 68 – hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 69 – hdc across to last st, (hdc, dc) in last st, ch1 turn
Row 70 – hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 71 – hdc across to last st, (hdc, dc) in last st, ch2 turn
Row 72 – (dc,hdc) in first st, hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 73 – hdc across to last 2 sts, hdc inc in next st, (hdc, dc) in last st, ch10 turn
Row 74 – hdc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc into next 8 chs, hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Rows 75-91 – hdc across to end, ch1 turn (17 rows)
Insert a st marker into the 30th st from the top, and fasten off.
Row 92 – fhdc 30 sts, starting in marked stitch and working towards the bottom of the sweater, hdc across to end. Ch1, turn.
Rows 93-109 – hdc across to end, ch1 turn (17 rows)
Row 110 – hdc across to last 8 sts, hdc2tog, hdc/dc decrease, ch2 turn (4 sts unworked)
Row 111 – dc/hdc decrease, hdc2tog, hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 112 – hdc across to last 2 sts, hdc/dc decrease, ch2 turn
Row 113 – dc/hdc decrease, hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 114 – hdc across to last 2 sts, hdc/dc decrease, ch1 turn
Row 115 – dc/hdc decrease, hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 116 – hdc across to last 2 sts, hdc2tog, ch1 turn
Row 117 – hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 118 – hdc2tog, hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 119 – hdc across to end, ch1 turn
Row 120 – hdc across to last 2 sts, hdc2tog, ch1 turn
Rows 121-122 – hdc across to end, ch1, turn

If you want to make your collar in a different color fasten off here, or you can leave it attached, but pause here and with a separate strand of yarn sew the 18 rows that make up each side of each shoulder using the mattress stitch.  

Collar:

Row 1 – ch1, slst around the collar of the sweater, putting 1 slst at the end of each row that ends with a hdc or ch1 and 2 slst at the end of the row that ends with a dc or ch2, ch1 turn
Row 2 – hdc across the slst you just made, ch1 turn
Rows 3-5 – fphdc,bphdc, repeat across to end, ch1
We are now going to turn our work so we are working down the back of the sweater, adding the buttonhole panel.

Buttonhole Panel:

Row 128 – sc into the ends of the last 4 rows, sc across the starting 74 fhdc/74 ch, ch1 turn
Rows 129-131 – sc across to end ch1 turn
Row 132 – sc in first 3 sts, ch3, skip 3 sts, * sc across next 10 sts, ch3, skip sts*, repeat *-* 4 more times ( for a total of 6 buttonholes), sc to end, ch1 turn
Row 133 – sc across to ch sts, 3sc in ch space, sc across next 10 sts, 3sc in ch space, repeat 4 more times, sc in last 3 sts, ch1 turn
Rows 134-136 – sc across to end, ch1 turn
Fasten off and weave in ends.

Button Panel:

Row 1 – slst into the bottom corner of the back left panel, ch1, sc into same st, sc across to collar rows, sc into the end of each of the last 4 rows of the collar, ch1 turn
Rows 2-9 – sc across, ch1 turn
Fasten off and weave in ends.

Sleeves:

Row 1 – attach to st on the bottom left side of the armhole, ch1, hdc around, join with slst to first st, ch1 turn
Row 2-3 – hdc around, slst join to first st, ch1 turn
Row 4 – hdc around to last 2 sts, hdc2tog, slst join to first st, ch1 turn
Row 5 – hdc around, slst join ch1 turn
Row 6 – hdc around, ch1, turn
Rows 7-21 – repeat rows 4-6
Row 22 – hdc around, last 2 sts, hdc2tog,slst join,ch1, turn
Row 23 – hdc around, slst join, ch1 turn
Row 24 – hdc2tog, hdc around, slst join, ch1, turn
Row 25 – hdc around, slst join, ch1, turn
Rows 26-46 – repeat rows 22-25
Rows 47-50 – hdc around, slst join, ch1, turn
Row 51 – slst around, slst join, ch1 DO NOT turn, from here to end of the sleeve.
Row 52 – hdc around, slst join, ch1
Row 53 – fphdc,bphdc repeat around, slst join to first st, ch1
Rows 54-66 – repeat row 53 (13 rows)
Fasten off and weave in ends

Waistband:

Row 1 – overlap the 2 button panels and slst them together putting 1 slst at the end of each row, continue to slst around putting 1 slst at the end of each row, slst join, ch1 turn
Row 2 – hdc2tog, hdc across next 15, repeat 7 times (8 total), hdc into remaining sts, slst join, ch1
Rows 3-15 – fphdc, bphdc, repeat around, ch1 turn
Fasten off and weave in ends

Finishing Instructions:

You are going to sew the buttons onto the 5th row of buttonhole panel. Line up the two panels and mark the st on the button panel that lines up with the middle of the buttonholes. Weave in all your ends and you finished.


I hope you love this pattern and sweater as much as my testers, family, friends and I have. I would love to hear your comments and see your Sara Sue Sweaters, please share them with me here in the comment section below, on my Facebook Page, or Instagram.

Pattern Review – Child Size Hooded Cardigan By Heart Hook Home

She loves this crochet cardigan!!

I don’t know about you, but my favorite things to crochet are cozy, warm and/or comforting. The Child Size Hooded Cardigan delightfully designed by Ashlea Konecny of Heart Hook Home has quickly become my daughter’s favorite, as I’m sure her pictures show. She loves how it flies out when she does her spins, the oversized hood, and ” It’s SOOO Cozy,” she says. She is constantly getting compliments when she wears it out, (the girls at our favorite diner, really love it.) We even had a couple teenage girls stop us and ask us where to get one. I’m sure you can imagine my delight to tell them that I made it.

About the Designer

Ashlea Konecny of Heart Hook Home has quickly become one of my favorite crochet designers. She creates well written, easy to follow patterns, in a large range of sizes, as she provides as much information as she can think of, to help you in creating and finishing her designs. She is just an email and a little patience away, to help you problem solve or clarify if you get confused. Some of my favorites of her designs are her bookmarks, the Ninja Turtle Child’s Beanie with Mask, her Love Hearts, and the Lemon Squeezy Pullover is on my to-do list for me. If you have worked up one or many of her wonderful designs I would love to which are your favorites.

The Details

The Child Size Hooded Cardigan is the children’s version of Ashlea’s Painted Canyon Cardigan. It and all of her other patterns are available for purchase on Ravelry and some patterns are free on her website HeartHookHome.com. The child size hooded cardigan is one of the patterns that are free on her website, however, each size is on separate pages. The child size hooded cardigan comes in 7 different sizes; preemie and newborn sleep sacks, 6 months, 12 months, 2/3T, 4/5T, 6/8, and 10/12. I first made this pattern with the free version on her blog in the 4/5T size, and then after finishing it and loving it so much I purchased the pattern from Ravelry and made 2 more in sizes 2/3t and 6/8.

How Easy?

The pattern instructions are easy to understand and follow. You need an understanding of half double crochet (HDC), front post HDC (FPHDC), back post HDC (BPHDC), and optionally the foundation HDC. I don’t think that the foundation HDC is needed, I used it on the first 2 cardigans I made. When I made the 3rd one, I chained instead of doing the Foundation HDC, and I prefer the way it came out. I frequently use HDC and foundation HDC in my projects, however, FPHDC and BPHDC are not among my favorite stitches. They do create a pretty and easily textured edge.

I love that the only pieces that needed to be sewn on were the optional pockets, which I omitted in the 2 smaller sizes. I made I few other changes; I took her suggestion and made the 2/3T size with an H hook in place of the 12-month size (because I have chunky little 1 year) and shorten the sleeves a few rows. The first one I made in the 4/5T size, came out a little too big, I think that is partly because of my gauge and partially because she is just small for her size in general. She loves it and she’ll grow into it so I’m happy.

The Fit

The finished garment has great stretch and it’s a little oversized, which helps it look great on a wide range of sizes. There is no shaping to the garment, which I prefer in cardigans like this and it makes a simpler pattern. The thicker HDC stitches create a warm, cozy cardigan. That thickness does cause the bottom of the sweater to lengthen just a little. This cardigan is longer than you would expect, it’s more of a jacket length, it is almost down to my daughter’s knees. The next one I plan on making a little shorter, this one is a little too long for her liking.

Final Thoughts

After making 3 of these cardigans for my girls, and seeing how much they love them, I’ve had several people ask me to make them one too. Lucky for us all, Ashlea designed an adult version of this sweater, and that is what I will be working on next. I hope to be able to tell all about that soon. I hope this review has helped you with any question you may have had about this pattern and I hope I have inspired you to try to create your own. Subscribe, share, leave a comment, I would love to hear from you and see your beautiful creations.